Saturday, March 26 - Sunday, March 27, 2011
We took the subway for the first time this weekend (and didn't get lost...just sayin'...). We knew we were getting close because the White People to Korean People ratio was steadily increasing. One transfer, 50 minutes and about 1000 looks/stares later, we were in Itaewon. Itaewon is a happenin' little district of Seoul that is popular among young people, tourists and foreigners, as well as military personnel, due to the close proximity of Yongsan Garrison, Korea's main U.S. Army Base. There are tons of restaurants, bars, shops, etc. to suit anyone's fancy and they often cater to foreigners. We met up with one of Mike's old co-workers who made the move to South Korea a couple of weeks before we did. He's married to a fine Korean lady (and they have the most adorable baby ever!) and he's worked in Korea before, so he was our tour guide for evening. It was great to see a familiar (and white) face, even though white faces weren't in very short supply in Itaewon. We had a couple of drinks at a sports bar/pub (mmm...Strongbow!) and then found our way to a Canadian bar, the Rocky Mountain Tavern, for a little taste of home. I don't think I've ever had a grilled chicken sandwich and french fries that were so delicious and Mike says it was the best burger he's ever had. It was no "Hoser Hut", but the cozy and friendly atmosphere were just what we needed (and the hockey paraphernalia plastered all over the walls and the RCMP-moose and beavers decorating the menu weren't to be unappreciated either!). Being surrounded by foreigners like us and hearing snippets of conversation in English was still pretty weird, even after being in Korea for only a couple of weeks (but a good weird, obviously).
We said goodbye to the RMT and pledged to return once the live music started later that night. We strolled around in search of our next destination, where we each had a Soju Kettle. The only thing I can tell you about this beverage is that it contained some Soju (and by some, I mean a LOT), your choice of Kool-Aid and it came in a 2-litre pop bottle, with the top half of the bottle cut off. I can also tell you it was pretty tasty. We headed to yet another resto-pub/bar for some more drinks and finally made our way back to the RMT. The music was just okay, so after a while, we decided to try to catch the last train home (how often do people attempt this and actually manage to catch the train? I honestly don't know, because I am never one of them...especially when said train departs Itaewon at 11:30pm). Cab rides back to Uijeongbu aren't TOO expensive, but Mike and I still hadn't gotten a paycheck and we only brought so much cash with us (naturally, we ended up spending a bit more money in Itaewon then we had anticipated). So, the taxi option was in fact just a taxi, sans option. With nothing left to do, we had a few more drinks at...somewhere...and then decided to crash at a hotel until the subways started running again in the morning. Now, Itaewon being the tourist trap it is, the hotels we ventured into were charging waaaay too much for a room, even split three ways. So, we cabbed it to a local jjimjilbang.
A jjimjilbang/jimjilbong is essentially a very large, 24 hour, public bathhouse (like in Spirited Away, minus all the crazy spirits of course), furnished with saunas, hot tubs, hot rooms, cold rooms, massage areas, snack bars/food courts and sometimes even Arcade rooms, PC bongs and noribongs (more on those later). Some bathhouses are gender-segregated, but this one was "come-one-come-all" (except for the change rooms, of course). We each got a locker key, an I.D. bracelet to keep track of the money we'd spend, and some pyjamas and were good to go. I was a little apprehensive about it all at first (not to mention super hungry and tired, my buzz was definitely gone) but it turned out to be a pretty sweet place. After changing into my pjs, I met up with the boys downstairs (this was a multi-level jimjilbong) and we visited a couple hot and cold rooms. Swimming and massages were options, but not viable ones because we were lacking swimsuits and 60 bucks, so we settled on some food instead. After a quick swipe from our bracelets, we had a delicious Korean late-night 2am snack. I noticed, not for the first time, that Koreans have no sense of time. We weren't the only ones eating, or even walking around. The place wasn't filled with the usual after-the-bar crowd like you'd find back home either (Elgin Street Diner anyone???), but with people of all ages. ALL. Little old ladies, teenagers, young couples, parents and their kids...everyone! Just relaxing and enjoying a little quiet time. By this point, I was ready for bed, or a heated-floor, which is exactly what I got. While some jimjilbongs have separate sleeping quarters, the "bedroom" here was a very large open area/foyer, with a heated floor and about a hundred people sprawled all over it. I noticed that some people had pillows and even blankets, but I had no idea where they got them, so I just found an open space and curled up to catch some z's. The boys walked around for a bit (or so I'm told) before doing the same. We woke up a few hours later, exhausted and a little stiff, but very much feeling at peace. After returning our pjs and paying the amount owed on our I.D. Bracelets (a grand total of 18, 000 won ($18), we caught the train home.
Grateful that our hard-as-rock-bed was actually a bed and not the floor, we zonked out for a few more hours. We spent the rest of the afternoon playing video games and eating pizza. Yes, that's right, pizza. I thought that would be one of the things I would miss terribly being over here in Korea, but they actually have little pizza franchises kicking around, and there just happens to be one in our little neighbourhood. The crust is a little sweet, but the cheese is amazing and the price is right at 5000 won (in case you haven't figured it out, $1 = 1,000 won, roughly) for an ENTIRE pizza. So yeah, no complaints here.
So, all in all, a pretty solid and well-rounded weekend. As strange as the jimjilbong was, it was a pretty neat experience. It'd definitely be cool to go back there with a group of people, and use the facilities as they were meant to be used, instead of just crashing on the floor until the subway starts back up.
This point has to go to Korea, for their cheap cab rides and public transportation.
Riding the bus costs less than a dollar, and if you stay within a certain time limit and/or area, a cab fare is about $2. If you're sharing with a friend, you can make it from one side of the city to the other for less than what you'd pay just to open the door of a cab in Vancouver. Chalk one up for Korea!
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| You win this round, Korea! |